Editor’s Note: Like so many other restaurants in Memphis and elsewhere, Payne’s has closed its dining room until further notice due to the coronavirus outbreak, but they are offering takeout and curbside delivery. They have not yet established their hours, so call before making plans: 272-1523.
Payne’s Bar-B-Que shoulder sandwich is a true original. It’s been made the same way with the same sauce and slaw recipes since the business opened in April 1972.
In fact, most of the menu hasn’t changed in almost 50 years. “It’s the same — ribs, shoulder, bologna, smoked sausage,” says Ron Payne, son of Payne’s original owners Flora and the late Horton Payne.
Ron and his sister, Candice Payne-Parker, work alongside their mother five days a week at the spacious Midtown restaurant, which is not where the business began. “The original location was at Lamar at Barksdale,” Ron says. It was manned by his parents and his grandmother, the late Emily Payne, who also was one of the founders.
“I think it’s definitely more of the smoke flavor. It’s closer to what somebody could do at home than most of the restaurants. I guess it’s more homestyle ‘Mom and Pop’s.’” — Ron Payne
The barbecue restaurant “was my dad’s idea. He actually founded Payne’s. He came from a barbecue family. He had an Uncle Joe that had a restaurant in North Mississippi where he learned how to barbecue.”
Payne’s took off quickly, Ron says. “Lamar was a little bit more booming at that time. There was a truck company down the street. So, they pretty much got a lot of business from guys that worked up and down Lamar.”
They decided to relocate a few years later. “The business grew. It was a very small place. Just counter pickup.”
Payne’s moved to the current building. just three blocks from the first one, in 1976. “It was a filling station and a mechanic’s shop,” he says. “By that time, they had reason to move. The lines were out the door at the other location.”
A Payne’s shoulder sandwich is unique. “I think it’s definitely more of the smoke flavor. It’s closer to what somebody could do at home than most of the restaurants. I guess it’s more homestyle ‘Mom and Pop’s.’”
They cook “from eight to 10 shoulders a day” in their barbecue pit, Ron says. “Someone’s usually here by 7. But we cook the shoulders all day for the next day.”
They make their coleslaw and sauce “every morning,” he says. “Fresh.”
Payne’s slaw also helps make their barbecue sandwich special. “It was actually a family recipe that came from my grandmother’s side of the family that was handed down to her,” Ron says. “I think what makes it stand out is the mustard base. The mustard, vinegary, tangy [flavor] mixes with the sweet sauce. I guess they complement each other.”
Payne’s Bar-B-Que is at 1762 Lamar; (901) 272-1523
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